The permaculture movement seems to be coming into its own. It’s easy to see why. In a world of climate change and destruction of nature, the tenants of permaculture, involving community sharing, earth care, and people care, are more important than ever. It may seem intimidating, but many of permaculture proponents recommend starting slow and building up your skills over time. It doesn’t have to be a huge worldview shift. There are steps even the most dedicated urbanites can take to start a sustainable permaculture project in their own area.
For condo-dwelling city farmers, a great place to start is your balcony. Potted fruit trees, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are relatively easy to grow in pots and a good place to start when it comes to growing your own produce.
Cucumbers, greens, and beans are similar beginner plants that will grow quickly even in smaller spaces. If you have access, a rooftop garden also provides lots of area to grow an edible garden. Use companion planting, pairing vegetables in the same family to enrich the soil, as well as make the most use of your lot. Planting pesticide herbs or vegetables like garlic and onions along with your vegetables cuts down on the need for pest control.
Herbs/spices and medicinal plants are often more fast-growing plant types that can flourish in a variety of conditions. Nothing beats fresh herbs for cooking, and all that glass in modern architecture is perfect for catching sunlight to keep even an indoor garden growing strong.
Chickens take surprisingly little space. If you have room for them, they provide a powerhouse of nutrients for your backyard or rooftop gardens, farm-fresh eggs, and totally organic meat.
Check out your city zoning laws and start a backyard flock. They make great pets, and they have plenty to offer a city-dwellers homestead and community. And chickens eat almost everything in the garden. Raising free-range chickens also provides great pest control and can even help you weed the garden!
Create a rotational chicken run around the garden, so your backyard chickens can pick from a smorgasbord of pests, weeds, and chicken-friendly foods. It also makes composting chicken manure that much easier.
Even if it feels like everyone lives on top of everyone else, urban areas have a surprising amount of unused areas. Consider the “hell strip.” That space between your walkway and the curb that is usually nothing but crabgrass or turf. Check with your city, and your neighbors, about planting a garden in this space.
Choose perennials, rather than annuals. They’re hardier, and you’ll need to work the soil less. Stay away from fruits and veg for a roadside garden. Those plants will be exposed to road salt, gasoline, and other toxins. Instead, keep the edible plants on the sidewalk side, where it tends to be gentler.
Check with your city ordinances before planting any trees that will grow more than 18 inches in height. Be mindful of lines of sight. The last thing you want is to distract drivers and cause problems. Finally, try to keep the soil level at least 2 inches below the curb, to allow rainwater to collect there.
You want to start a permaculture garden but have no free space. Think about your neighborhood. Is there a community garden you can take advantage of, or could you start one?
You may find a community garden available to you, and claim a plot, or volunteer to help with existing plots. Or you can go through the steps to create a community garden. There are many organizations which provide fresh produce for vulnerable members of the community, in exchange for work in the If your area doesn’t provide such a program, talk to your municipality leaders about how to start one.
Not only will you be creating a sustainable organic garden, but you’ll also be providing a needed resource to vulnerable community members and building a stronger and more connected neighborhood.
A major aspect of permaculture is to create a self-sustaining system that can replenish itself. With that in mind, however you create your garden, either a rooftop space, edible balcony, or community sharing experience, remember to invite the local wildlife. Stick to natural pesticides, like lemongrass and citrus sprays. Plant flowers, fruits, and vegetables that will encourage pollinators like butterflies and bees.
To conserve energy, you don’t need to install expensive solar panels or wind turbines. With a swale, you can make use of your land’s natural structure to irrigate in a way that saves you time and energy, and allows you to conserve water.
By digging a series of trenches that you can use as gravel paths, you can save yourself the use of rain barrels, or worse, wasting water with a hose. There is plenty of how-to info available online.
Permaculture is less about a huge world shift than making small changes to your environment to make it more earth-friendly. Along with improving the environment, it’s important to create urban spots that encourage community, sustainability, and growth.
While projects listed here can help you make a difference in your life, and your environment, there are other considerations to keep in mind. Knowing your land is an important part of creating a permaculture garden. As you’re starting out, lower your input costs with natural soil amendments like composting and chicken manure from your own flock. The goal is to create spaces that closest imitate natural patterns and encourage the biodiversity that allows natural spaces to thrive. This is more essential than ever in urban environments, where space and human needs have cut deeply into our natural resources. Creating permaculture spaces in our cities come with challenges but doesn’t have to be impossible.
]]>Believe it or not, there are several gardening items that you can get without spending a single penny. You can usually get a big pile of mulch for free from your local utility company or local municipality. They spend a good deal of time processing limbs and brush that they cut from roadways and yards. These organizations are typically very willing to give it to someone who needs it rather than letting it go to waste. You can also sometimes get organic compost for free from recycling centers and sanitation companies, and some farms might give away manure for fertilizer.
Trade for Seeds, Clippings, and Seedlings with Other Gardeners
Do you have neighbors with nice gardens? Is there a local gardening club? Do you frequently talk to a lot of gardeners in nearby supply shops? Join some of the many online seed swapping groups. Many gardeners will be more than happy to trade for some of their seeds, plant clippings, seedlings and more, especially if their gardens are overflowing. Trading can allow you to obtain high quality plants and a wider variety of produce without spending a cent.
Build a Rapport with Other Gardeners and Garden Shop Employees
Your fellow gardeners can offer great tips on how to grow certain plants in the most efficient ways and where to get the best products for the lowest prices. In turn, you can also offer your advice and tips to other gardeners to help everyone save money and make their gardens flourish.
Having a good rapport with garden shop employees may also allow you to get good advice on which plants in the store are newest, which ones are the healthiest and when the store will have their best sales.
Make Your Own Insecticide and Fungicide
Pest control seems like a problem that requires a lot of cash, but there are many cheap and easy ways to make your insecticides. Most homemade options are organic and much safer for your plants than chemical products. For aphid problems, use tomato leaf spray. Alternatively, garlic oil spray will deter aphids and most beetles. For slugs, take an empty plastic tub about the size of a butter container and fill it halfway with beer. Bury a few tubs around the perimeter of the garden and cover the opening about three-quarters of the way with a small piece of wood or a rock. Slugs will be attracted to the beer, fall in and be unable to get out. For those with pets and small children, sprinkling diatomaceous earth over the area will also help deter slugs. Organic neem oil can be purchased in bulk relatively inexpensively and can help prevent or address a whole host of garden problems. Buy it in bulk and mix your own solution.
Beneficial bugs can also be an effective means to help rid you gardens of damaging pests. For instance, ladybugs eat whiteflies, aphids, and mites, and nematodes eat cutworms, beetles, and root weevil larvae. You can buy many beneficial bugs through specialty stores and online, but others can be attracted to your garden with certain plants.
Grow Vegetables that Can be Preserved
If you have a small family or simply grow more than you eat, don't waste the excess vegetables. Focus your growing efforts on plants that are easily dried, canned, jarred, frozen, and vacuum sealed. Most garden produce can be preserved. Some great vegetables for canning include tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, beets, cucumbers, carrots, peas, and beans. Don't vacuum seal vegetables such as celery, broccoli or lettuce since they will expel juices and gases that will make them go bad quickly. Some good veggies for vacuum sealing include squash, snap (green) beans, corn, blueberries, and strawberries.
Use Leftovers to Add Nutrients to you Garden
Are you boiling some potatoes or steaming carrots? Why waste the water in the pot when you can water your plants with it? Not only does using cooking water help conserve water and cut down on your water bill, but the nutrients left behind in the water from the cooked vegetables can be very beneficial to your growing plants. Compost your table scraps and yard waste. It’s not as complicated as many people make it out to be. For some composting tips, check out our 'Composting Basics' post.
Gardening is already a great way to save money from buying store-bought produce and can provide high quality food and much more diverse selections. But there are plenty of ways to save even more money without sacrificing the quality or quantity of your vegetables. If you follow these simple tips, you'll be seeing plenty of green in your garden and your wallet.
]]>What Is Verticillium Wilt?
Verticillium wilt is fungal disease affecting over 350 host plants found throughout the world. It's caused by the soil-dwelling Verticillium dahliae and Verticillium. albo-atrum. This fungus grows into plant roots and stems, depriving plants of necessary nutrients for proper growth and clogging plants' water transport systems. It's is most active in cooler weather but may also affect plants in warmer weather due to previous damage.
Signs of Verticillium Wilt in Plants
Plants affected by this fungus show certain signs, including faded yellow or green leaves that wilt and die. The lower leaves show signs before upper plant leaves. Very young or non-woody plants may die quickly. However, signs of disease can differ by plant type. Here are some signs of verticillium wilt on commonly grown plants.
Common Susceptible Food Crops
Tomatoes and cucumbers are often staples in many home gardens, and unfortunately susceptible to verticillium fungi. Signs of disease for both plants includes wilting of older plant leaves and stunted growth. You may notice a brown v-shaped pattern on affected leaves as well. The only cure is to remove affected plants. You can help to prevent future infections with crop rotation, planting tomatoes in well-drained soil, and choosing resistant varieties.
Strawberries are a favorite summer fruit. They too are often victims of verticillium fungi living in your soil. Affected plants leaves have brown edges and veins, mainly lower plant leaves. These leaves often die. Plants also produce few new leaves. You'll need to dig out and destroy infected plants, and like tomatoes and cucumbers, choose disease-resistant varieties to ensure healthy growth.
Common Susceptible Flowers
Roses are very common ornamental plants, but also susceptible to this fungus. Sick plants develop drying canes, and new leaves are stunted and yellow. The plants may die if swift action isn't taken. Trim out infected canes at soon as signs develop. Once too many canes are affected and the plant is dying, the only solution is to uproot the plant.
Chrysanthemums are an excellent addition to a sustainable garden, but they too can be infected with verticillium fungi. The disease shows signs at the base of the plant first with leaves that turn yellow and die. The plant will also produce very few if any, blooms.
Dahlia blooms are always a great addition to your garden but can also be affected by verticillium fungi. The plant's lower leaves turn yellow, its blooms droop, and you may also notice dark brown areas on plant stems. In most cases, you'll need to remove sick plants and trim any decayed areas from stored tubers to prevent disease.
Avoiding Verticillium Wilt
There is no cure for this disease, so your best chance of a healthy garden is preventing the fungi from living in your soil. You can achieve this by utilizing good gardening practices.
Proper watering and fertilization is essential to growing healthy plants. Making sure soil has plenty of nitrogen and good drainage is a good start. Also avoid overwatering plants!
Rotation also helps. Rotate your susceptible plants using a four-year cycle.
Solarization is another possible solution. In sunny, warm areas you can cover your garden area with a tarp and allow the heat to build up and kill the fungi.
If you know your soil is contaminated, you can choose from a variety of plants that are naturally immune to this disease. Some examples include beans, asparagus, corn, lettuce, onions, peas, sweet potatoes, and carrots.
These quick tips can help you in growing healthy plants that are free of this dreaded fungus. If you do find yourself struggling with this disease, we've put together a comprehensive list of plants that are susceptible, immune, and resistant to Verticillium Wilt.
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What is Hugelkultur and How Does It Benefit the Permaculture Garden?
Hugelkultur, meaning "hill culture" in German, is an agricultural principle using plant and tree biomass to mimic woodland decomposition. Typically, large mounds of logs and plant material are layered directly on the ground and then covered with a layer of soil to make a steep-sided raised bed. Some Hugelkultur beds can reach 6 feet tall or more, though it is also possible to keep the height near ground level. Hugelkultur has been utilized for centuries in Germany and has recently found favor with the permaculture movement and organic gardeners due to its sustainability and low impact.
How Can Hugelkultur Benefit the Home Gardener?
As a Hugelkultur's biomass decomposes, it becomes porous and acts like a sponge, absorbing large quantities of water. This water is later released back into the soil on demand via capillary action. This process of water retention is so effective that it has even been used in desert gardens to decrease the need for irrigation. Each Hugelkultur bed can last 20 years or more.
Since Hugelkultur aims to mimic natural woodland decomposition, it is a great way to nurture beneficial microorganisms, nematodes and bacteria. In turn, these encourage the slow release of nutrients into the earth in a symbiotic relationship, eventually creating a fertile, loamy, self-irrigating soil.
The water-retention benefits of a Hugelkultur bed are normally apparent by its second year. By this point the tree biomass, which is the slowest to decompose, has had time to absorb and build up water reserves. After the second or third year, the bed may never need to be watered again.
Heat generated from the decomposition of the biomass can also warm the surrounding soil for several years, extending the growing season for gardeners in cooler climates.
Nitrogen Robbing
A concern that is often raised when discussing Hugelkultur is that the decomposing wood and other biomass is known to initially "steal," or lock up, plant-feeding nitrogen from the surrounding soil. While this could be a potential problem, it is worth remembering that Hugelkultur beds have been used effectively for centuries, and many people have reported no problems related to nitrogen locking. The logs are normally buried deep enough to not affect the fertility in the upper layers of soil.
Hugelkultur beds often include plant biomass that is less dense than the logs, so this normally decomposes more quickly, releasing nutrients into the soil. This process counteracts any nitrogen locking of the denser, slower-to-decompose logs. The small risk of initial nitrogen locking can be avoided by using partially rotted wood in the initial construction of the beds. If initial nitrogen locking does become a problem, this can be remedied by supplementing each bed with a nutrient-rich compost or a homemade organic liquid feed for the first year or two. After this time, the beds should become self-feeding. Still, it is worth reiterating that many Hugelkultur beds made with a shallow topsoil layer do not exhibit any significant nitrogen locking.
Aesthetically Adaptable
Hugelkultur beds are versatile and can be adapted to suit a wide range of gardening requirements. For those who do not wish to have large mounds in their garden, there is also the option of applying the Hugelkultur principles to smaller, traditional raised beds. By excavating the ground during initial construction, adding the biomass into the newly dug hole and then covering with soil, you can create a Hugelkultur bed to suit your needs. Some people use wood chips instead of whole logs, though these beds tend to decompose faster than the log-based ones. It should be noted that Hugelkultur beds do settle over time, so it is advisable to add some extra soil when constructing the bed, to counteract any settlement that may occur.
After initial construction, Hugelkultur beds are relatively easy to maintain, requiring only occasional mulching to help with weed suppression. Hugelkultur beds are suitable for most gardeners and they can be a great solution for locations where irrigation is difficult, or water is limited. They are also useful in gardens with compacted soil, or soil with low fertility.
As long as the principles of Hugelkultur are adhered to, this creative, adaptable, and sustainable permaculture solution should provide favorable growing conditions in any garden for many years to come.
]]>The process entails using raw food waste, combined with dry and green plant materials, to create a natural, nutrient rich fertilizer. In composting, micro and macro-organisms decompose biodegradable materials to create a substance called humus, which is not to be confused with hummus, the beloved condiment made from garbanzo beans. Humus promotes sustainable soil health and delivers nutrients to plants in a form they can use. This leads to higher yields and helps prevent plant disease. The long-term use of chemical fertilizers invariably leads to a lifeless, barren soil that’s incapable of supporting plant growth without adding significant inputs.
Most raw organic waste belongs in the compost pile. In the typical home, this translates to fruit and vegetable leftovers that haven't come in contact with oils or chemicals. Start by keeping a lidded container in the kitchen for organic waste. Bigger clumps should be chopped to pieces, and it’s best to empty the container onto the compost pile frequently. A well-balanced compost pile also requires the use of dry and green plants (leaves, twigs, etc.). These materials help to balance the carbon and nitrogen levels of the resulting humus, and allow for oxygen flow, which is key to decomposition.
Several other biodegradable materials can be composted including paper, coffee grounds and tea leaves, eggshells, grass clippings, fireplace ashes, hair and fur, and all-natural fabrics and fibers like cotton, wool, and leather. Some of these items, such as leather, will take longer to decompose than others.
Meat, bones, and fish scraps generally should not be composted as they will usually attract pests. Weeds and diseased plants should also be avoided as they will most likely propagate in the fertilized area. Plants that show signs of any disease should be disposed of properly.
The composting area should be planned out considering factors such as ease of access, exposure to the sun and water, and proximity to neighbors who might object to the odors emitted by the process. It’s a good idea to choose an area where the earth is bare, to allow for worms and other organisms to enter the compost.
A four-foot squared area is a common size for a one-family household. Rotating the pile across various locations is a great way to replenish life to deteriorated areas of land. It is advisable to create a boxed in area, oftentimes made of wood, with a lid. This helps control moisture and heat, but also to keep out unwanted pests or too much rain. However, all you really need is a space large enough. If you prefer not to build a box yourself, manufactured welded wire bins are available online and generally work pretty well.
Materials in a compost pile are initially layered, alternating between dry plant materials, organic waste, and green plant materials. The compost should sit after the initial layering but must be stirred or turned periodically (every 2-4 weeks or so) or with the subsequent addition of biodegradable materials. This can be done with a pitchfork or shovel. The pile should be kept moist but should not be wet.
As with any decomposition process, some odors should be expected. However, a strong offensive odor is usually as sign that something isn’t right. It usually means there’s too much moisture or an improper mix of dry and green materials. A thin layer of soil on top of the compost can aid in masking some odors emitted by the pile, but remember that a warm, steaming pile is a good sign that the organisms within are busy making humus.
The time required to complete the process can vary widely based on several factors including moisture, temperature, diversity of the organisms that are present, and materials used (carbon to nitrogen ratio). The process can be accelerated using one of several organic 'compost starters' commercially available that can help to speed things up, but are certainly not necessary. In six months to a year, or once it becomes humus and takes on a rich, brown consistency, it’s ready to be used in the garden.
]]>Traditional overhead sprinkler systems have significant drawbacks. When an automatic sprinkler system activates in windy conditions, much of the water sprayed may be blown away from the intended target area, leaving the soil short of needed water.
In calmer conditions, there may be substantial water loss through evaporation because the water remains exposed on the plant or soil surface. Additionally, leafy plants restrict the amount of water that can get through to the underlying soil, depriving the root system of moisture.
Because sprinkler systems are normally set to activate once or twice each day, there is a constant cycle of dampening followed by drying out. This cycle can cause stress and encourage disease.
When plants are on sloping ground, the plants at the top of the slope may be further under-watered, because gravity will naturally draw any water downwards. The water available to plants on a slope will vary, with those at the bottom always having more water than those at the top. This can cause unwanted color and size variations.
Drip irrigation systems overcome many of the problems faced by overhead sprinkler systems and have several other advantages. They are designed to frequently deliver moisture to the root system. Obviously, plants can manage water resources better via their root systems. When the roots have the right amount of moisture, the plant can distribute water and nutrients up through the leaves, and to the fruit or flowers of the plant.
Because most drip irrigation systems are installed on or below the soils surface, loss of water through evaporation is minimized. Using a drip system efficiently prevents the root systems and soil from drying out. On slopes, drip systems can be tailored to ensure that plants at all points receive the required amount of water.
In addition, preventing water from contacting the leaves helps to inhibit microbe growth, and minimizes the travel of many surface fungi, bacteria, and other disease-causing microbes to other plants or into the soil. Most systems can also be closely and accurately controlled and monitored, largely preventing over-watering which is a major cause of many problems including many diseases and nutrient deficiencies.
Provided they are setup, maintained, and used correctly, drip irrigation systems require much less water (and work) than overhead systems. On average, water consumption is reduced by 20-40%. And many can be easily automated saving valuable time, energy, and resources. The water savings is so substantial that recognizing the superior efficiency of drip irrigation, many water companies allow continued use of these systems during drought conditions.
]]>Growing your own fruits and vegetables provides you and your family with a new hobby, supplies you with nutritious food throughout the year, and keeps you fit. For some guidance, take a look at some of the many excellent books on the subject and begin growing your own produce today.
]]>Decide whether you can grow in the ground, or whether you'd like to grow in raised beds or containers. There are benefits and drawbacks to each system. If you have a yard available with enough space to map out a small garden, it’s a good idea to test your soil before going too much further. Though several soil testing kits are available at any nursery or home improvement store, a reliable and professional test as a baseline is generally recommended. Check with your local cooperative extension office for available soil testing services. Nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, along with many other micro-nutrients, are essential to a successful harvest. Balancing these elements before planting is crucial to achieving the best results. Once you've obtained the proper balance, you're ready to plan your garden.
Container gardening can be done almost anywhere. There are many different containers to choose from. Browse online, or visit your local nursery to view all the options available. Be careful to choose containers with good soil drainage. One of the more obvious benefits of container gardening is the control you have over everything from where your plants will be located to how much water you will use. Unlike in-ground gardens, you'll be able to use different soil mixtures for different plants and controlling weeds is a breeze.
Once your soil is ready, planning is key. There are some online planning templates that take garden planning to a whole new level. Once you've got your parameters set, the online tool can tell you where the best location is in your garden for each thing you want to plant and exactly when to plant each variety. If you're not feeling particularly tech-savvy, a pencil and paper work great. Make sure to use accurate measurements in your plan. There's nothing worse than squeezing all your plants onto a paper map only to realize during planting that you didn't leave enough actual space for your plants to grow. Make sure to leave plenty of space for each type of plant you plan to grow. Crowding to much together will not only reduce overall yields, but also encourages pests and disease.
What you can grow and when you should grow it will depend on a number of factors including what zone you're in. You can use the interactive USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to determine your growing zone in the United States. Their interactive map can be especially helpful to narrow down your specific zone. For optimal results, take some time to research varieties that are best suited to your growing conditions and climate. For example, determinate tomato varieties are often best suited for container gardens due to their smaller size and lower nutritional needs than indeterminate varieties.
Whether you decide to start your seeds inside or sow them directly in the ground will also depend on where you live. But no matter where you live, once your plants are established, ground cover is crucial to not only retain moisture but to help control the growth of weeds. Using mulch or wood chips is recommended. These can sometimes be obtained for free from a local tree trimmer or green recycling center. Try checking your city or county website for information on green recycling. In many larger cities, organic compost is also available to home gardeners for free or for a small fee.
Joining a local gardening club can be an amazing source of information. Many gardening clubs have been operating for years. Having an experienced urban gardener to turn to for advice on regional pests and diseases can save your entire crop. If you can't find an established gardening club in your area, consider starting one of your own. As an added bonus, most gardening clubs have a crop-sharing program. Gardeners plan their entire gardens for each season so that they can coordinate, help each other and share in the harvest.
Harvest time has traditionally been a time of celebration. Knowing how to properly preserve your bounty will make the celebration even sweeter. Canning, drying and storing are all worthwhile skills for the home gardener to learn and cultivate. Whether you plan to stock food for winter months or create homemade jams and relishes to give as holiday gifts, there are plenty of ways to use your harvest.
Urban gardening not only provides healthy meals but can help ease mental stress and provide a worthwhile and rewarding hobby for anyone, including children, teens and retirees. Some people view urban gardening as a revolution of sorts, while others view it as an inexpensive way to put the healthiest produce on the dinner table. Whatever your motivation, welcome to the world of urban gardening, enjoy the view.
]]>Start with the right varieties for your growing conditions. Some varieties are better suited to certain locations based on weather, pests, length of day, sun exposure, etc. In addition, decide if you want to plant determinate or indeterminate varieties. This will help in planning the space and growing requirements.
I grow mostly indeterminate varieties because I think they taste better (generally speaking), there are many more options available, and they are often heavier yielding. I also prefer to stagger the harvest.
With determinate varieties, fruit generally ripens at about the same time which is great for processing. In addition, determinate varieties usually have a more controlled growth habit and typically don’t require as much vertical support. These traits are often ideal for smaller spaces and containers, but can limit overall yield. Shop for tomato seeds.
Provide well drained, compost rich soil. One part peat moss, one part compost, and one part top soil usually does the trick for raised beds. For established beds, just mix about 2 inched of compost into the top 6 inches or so. If growing in the ground, test your soil, and amend it as required. Though the optimal soil mix will vary based on your local conditions and the types of plants you’ll be growing, this mix generally works well for tomatoes. If you live in a region that gets a lot of rain, consider adding pearlite, or vermiculite to aid with drainage.
Trim off lower leaves 12 in. From soil level. As your plants grow to be about 2–3 ft. tall, over a period of a couple of weeks, trim the low lying leaves to help prevent the spread of disease and prevent pests. This is a commonly overlooked practice that can often make or break your season.
Keep weeds under control. It sort of goes without saying, but it’s easy to let them get out of hand. Weeds can cause all sorts of problems by harboring pests and diseases, stealing nutrients and water, strangling roots and stems, blocking sunlight, and even releasing growth inhibiting chemicals into the soil in some cases (just to name a few).
Keep a consistent watering schedule. Tomatoes need adequate water, but will suffer if they get too much. It’s tricky because the amount they need will vary as they mature and the weather conditions change.
As a general rule, only water if the soil is dry 1–2 in. deep. Too much or inconsistent watering increases the chances of disease, can limit nutrient uptake, and can make fruit crack. Stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. It doesn’t need to be wet, only moist. When watering is needed, try to avoid getting the leaves wet, also to help prevent disease.
Remove ‘suckers’ from indeterminate varieties. They can be found growing in between a branch and the stem. This prevents the plant from creating multiple stems. Though you could choose to let them all grow out (and some growers do), they can very quickly become unmanageable, overgrown, and susceptible to disease. In addition, though you will have big bushy green plants, the yield can suffer unless you have a very long growing season. The later fruit sets may not have time to mature before the first frost.
You don't have to remove every last sucker. Truth is, it's hard to get them all. And depending on their habit and available growing space, some plants I let grow into 2 stems intentionally. It just depends on the plant and available real estate. But in general, by keeping this new growth in check, the plant's resources are better directed toward the maturing fruit. Don’t remove any new growth from determinate varieties, that’s where the fruit will set.
There is quite a bit of debate surrounding 'suckers' and whether or not they should be removed or left to grow 'wild'. Some gardeners simply don't see the need, or feel it causes more harm than good. In my experience it's well worth the time, allowing for more efficient use of space as well as healthier plants. It really just depends on your objectives, methods, available resources, growing conditions, and limitations.
Address diseases and pest issues quickly before they get out of control. Some diseases will not just kill the infected plant, but will easily spread to others if not mitigated quickly. As hard as it may be, it may mean removing one that isn’t responding well to treatment to save the others. There are many organic pest and disease control products available. I find neem oil works well for most pests and diseases I've battled.
Have fun and experiment. No doubt you will make many mistakes, from which valuable experiences can be gained. What originally attracted me to horticulture was the freedom to try new techniques and methods. There is no single right way. There are general principles that can be followed to increase your chances at success. That leaves a whole lot of room for each individual grower to experiment and determine the best tricks and methods for themselves.
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